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South Dakota: America's Best Kept Secret!

By Argile Stox
Mar. 1, 2005

In 1990, I viewed a Movie – Dances With Wolves, starring Kevin Costner. At the time, I was a dyed-in-the wool New Yorker. However, I continually mentioned to friends and family regarding my desire to live in a place which contained wide opened spaces, and live in a small town.

As the story unfolded, Kevin Costner treated the audience to scenes which contained views of vast vestiges of unpopulated, undeveloped land, foliage, mountains, and blue skies as far as the eye can see. I sat in my seat transfixed by the storyline, acting, direction, and impeccable cinematography.

At the conclusion of the movie, I waited for the final credits to roll and discovered that it was filmed in South Dakota. “South Dakota?” I muttered. “I never hear anything about the Dakota’s. Hmmm. One day, I will have to check out that State.”

Exiting the theater, my shoes walked on familiar and unyielding concrete. My field of vision was filled with tall brick and mortar structures - faintly illuminated by street lamps, a yellow sea of taxi cabs, and hordes of people. My ears were bombarded by faint police and ambulance sirens, car horns, alarms, and the heterodyne of individual conversations. However, the images of wide open spaces, blue sky, and mountains continually flashed through my mind.

Fourteen years later, I was invited by Tracy Sutterer (a PublishAmerica Author) to spend the New Year Holiday in Rapid City, South Dakota. At the time, I was living in the “Land of Lincoln” – Illinois. I jumped at the opportunity to visit with her and possibly explore / experience what was detailed in the movie, with all my senses. The visit was supposed to last a maximum of eight days.

A few days into the visit, Tracy suggested that we take a short ride to view the Mount Rushmore Monument. I was thrilled that my eyes and mind would finally capture the image of the Monument, which had only been gleamed on two dimensional pictures contained in books.

As the four cylinders of her Subaru Outback navigated the highway, I became a blabbering slab of Jell-O “tourist” expounding on the incredible mountains, trees of the Black Hills, and scenery which was unfolding before my eyes through the windshield. Tracy was born and raised in Belle Fourche, South Dakota. Shortly before we arrived at the Monument, George Washington’s head appeared above the tree line – it was amazing! The dead of Winter is not exactly prime tourist season, as the parking structure was a sea of empty spaces. As we exited the car, I joked: “Remember where we parked…” A few moments elapsed, as the humor of my comment hung in the air. As if on queue, we had a good laugh.

It was a clear and crisp Winter day, as we entered the promenade of the Monument. I was almost bowled over by the Roman/Greek grey granite stone structures and archways leading to the vast picturesque view of the blasted and carved busts of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. Each of the Fifty States (and possessions) was carved into magnificent stone pillars which indicated the date of admittance or acquisition into the Union. The breath left my lungs while my eyes scanned the magnificent sight which jetted from the mountain face, and the snow covered amphitheater below. There we stood in silence and reverence, as mountain goats were observed sunbathing on the mountain precipices.

After regaining my composure, we made our way to the Mount Rushmore Museum, and I spent hours filling my mind with all of the artifacts, historical videos, and abundance of information which was offered. We then made our way to a short movie presentation on the history, construction, and vintage footage of the dedication of the Monument by President Franklyn D. Roosevelt in the early 1940’s, and a more recent re-dedication of Mount Rushmore by then President George Bush, Senior - in the early 1990’s. WOW!!!

We also visited the bookstore and gift shop. I had a heated discussion with my wallet, as I wanted to purchase every historical book which contained the writing / poetry of Abraham Lincoln, and prominent figures of the American Revolution.

A few days later, the degenerative bone disease and Arthritis in my back flared up, and I was “flat on my back”. The pain was so severe I could only move my body from the bed to the couch. Only after consuming massive amounts of over-the-counter pain relievers and a few wine coolers (during New Year’s) over a three day period, was I able to resume exploring the sights of South Dakota.

One weekend, Tracy and I visited the Crazy Horse Monument and Museum. This was truly another feast for my pain weary mind. As we pulled into the deserted parking lot, the yet to be completed stone blasted and carved image of the legendary “Crazy Horse” appeared through the windshield.

After more than a half century of dedication by the family of the original sculptor, the huge face of this Native American Warrior / Peacemaker – was, looking solemnly over the land. Below, drawn in chalk was the image of the horse, yet to be awakened from its slumber in the raw rocks of the mountain. I still can not wrap my mind around the fact that it has taken more than fifty years to complete the face. I learned later that the family refused money from the Federal Government, relying only on the price of admission and private donations in their quest to complete the task.

It is a small world. When we entered the magnificent log cabin type museum, we were greeted by a man who hailed from – of all places, Brooklyn, New York. After a short “Geez, you are from New York too?!” conversation, Tracy and I were directed to a theater and viewed a movie which explained the humble beginnings and history of the Crazy Horse Monument and Museum. WOW!!! You want to talk about drive, desire, and determination? The late sculptor and his family who are - stone-by-stone, bringing his dream to eventual fruition, has definitely left a huge impression on me.

The Museum, all wood, houses priceless artifacts, paintings, drawings, and photographs of a dwindling Native American culture. Tracy and I spent untold hours exploring every nook and cranny of the huge museum’s square footage. They even served free coffee (free coffee – to this writer / coffee-hound was greatly appreciated!). You want Native American trinkets? The Gift Shop has it all! Tracy spent at least an hour saying “I want this – that to add to my collection”. I assured her, that on a subsequent visit I would purchase a few “cachucha’s” (Yiddish for “things”) to display in her China Cabinet.

We were getting hungry and Hill City was our next stop. We found a quaint rustic restaurant where I could rest my aching back. You would think that since I was in South Dakota “The Land of Beef,” that a hearty steak would be my first choice. Nope! This eatery had on the menu my favorite Soul Food – a Ruben Sandwich. Hey, I am, after all, a New Yorker!

Arriving back at Tracy’s place – you guessed it right! My back was once again stiff with pain. There I was, flat on my back - again. You would think that Tracy would have really gotten sick and tired of me, and my fifty year old (feels like Eighty-Eight) cranky back. I was beginning to think that I was wearing out my welcome. When I suggested that I leave, Tracy’s eyes opened wide and she exclaimed, “What are you kidding? I love having you here! Your New York “Gotta see everything in South Dakota,” and excitement has renewed my appreciation of my surroundings. Seeing things through your eyes, makes me feel like a tourist, too. You’re not going anywhere – Buddy!!!”

The next weekend, we drove to her family Ranch in Belle Fourche. The drive there and the scenery that was unfolding before my eyes through the windshield were vivid and extraordinary. Once again, I became a blabbering idiot – complete with “Oh, Wow’s! I can’t believe how much land there is! There are horses, cows, antelopes, wild turkeys, sheep, and goats!!!”

Upon my arrival at the over two thousand acre ranch, I received a very warm welcome from Tracy’s Mom and Step-Father, and I was immediately given the “Grand Tour”. I was shown barns - filled with sheep, goats, chickens, cats, a few donkeys and horses, quack-less ducks, and… now get this – a sheep herding LAMA! Of all things to behold, a sheep herding Lama!

I was also learning Ranch lingo – “Bum sheep and goats” as an example. In my New York mind “Bum” defined a non-working, vagabond individual. I later recounted my thoughts to Tracy – “Bum sheep and goats- huh? Do they refuse to give milk or something? Is there a specific job that they are assigned which they refuse to do?”

Tracy almost fell down on the floor, laughing. I learned later that the term “Bum” is assigned to a Ranch animal whose mother has refused to nurse and / or has died. The Bum is then hand-bottle fed by Tracy’s mother – who even keeps the Bums in a bathroom, until such time as they are ready to be placed in the barn. She also hand bottle feeds the Bums in the barn – three times a day. This activity is known as “chores”.

While Tracy’s Step-Father was giving me the tour, we came upon a group of sheep and a goat. He pointed to the goat and said, “That is a blind goat”. I thought for a moment and responded with this statement, “Oh, I see. Is that another Ranch designation for an animal?” He looked at me very sternly for a few moments. He then broke out in almost uncontrollable laughter and said, “No! That is just a BLIND GOAT! It was born blind!” Yup! “Dunce would be a good word to describe this City Slicker,” I muttered.

Then, I was guided to the prize. A pasture filled with cows! I’m not talking a small pasture or a few cows, either. My eyes viewed a pasture which contained a herd of cows, and an enormous amount of land which extended past a tree line and beyond. Shades of Dances With Wolves? You bet! “I gotta walk this land!” Was my plea to Tracy and her family. However, our stomachs were loudly requesting new inventory to sort out, and it was getting dark. Let me tell you, when it gets dark on a Ranch in Belle Fourche, South Dakota… It Really, Really, gets dark! Tracy assured me that on our next visit we would spend a weekend at the Ranch, and I could walk to my hearts content.

It must have been the combination of fresh air, excitement, and home cooking at the Ranch – for I was exhausted. I remember getting into the car and bidding farewell to Tracy’s family. However, that was all I remember. I opened my eyes only when Tracy nudged me to ‘wake up’ when we arrived in Rapid City. I slept very well that night and my back was silent.

During the week, I was treated to The Black Hills Stock and Rodeo Show at the Rapid City Convention Center (see my U-K article: http://www.useless- knowledge.com/1234/feb/article085.html) which was amazing! Roping, bull riding, and other mid- western cowboy antics really buoyed my spirit. My back, however, kept on repeating “Don’t even think about Bronco Busting!” Something about a wheelchair in my future or orthopedic surgery quickly dissipated any thought of taking up any of those recreational activities.

As promised, Tracy and I were back at the Ranch the following weekend. Although hampered by a lingering and nagging upper repertory and sinus condition, and with a slew of Over The Counter Cold Remedies in tow (see my U-K article: http://www.useless- knowledge.com/1234/feb/article333.html ) I finally was granted the priceless opportunity to walk the never-ending pasture and acreage of the Ranch.

Just like what was depicted in Kevin Costner’s Movie, the land beneath my feet welcomed me to South Dakota. My walk was glorious. Never mind that I had to stop every so often to catch my breath, dissolve enormous quantities of menthol cough suppressants in my mouth, and almost exhaust the bulging mass of tissues in my back pants pocket, from sneezing and a continually runny nose – I walked and walked and walked… Even in the dead of Winter, the brown fields, dark green trees, multicolored rock formations which rose from the earth, were a High Definition / Digital / Full Color sight to behold. I explored an over hundred year old crumbling homestead structure – complete with an outhouse and looming windmill - slowing being returned to the earth. Did I take pictures? You bet! However, the at least forty year old 35mm camera I was using had a rewind mechanism which failed to engage, and destroyed not one roll of twenty-four exposures, but two!

Well, I have memories… The Ranch is not going anywhere, and Tracy’s family extended a “come visit, any time” open invitation. Next time, I am going to bring a digital camera and at least three memory cards to capture and document my “walk”. You think I should bring extra batteries? I will not leave home without them!

The weekend came to a close, and Tracy and I ventured back to Rapid City. All the way to her house, she could not shut me up as I recounted all that I had seen. She listened patiently as I described in vivid detail my discovery of a row of rusted 1920 -1930’s type International and Ford pickup trucks that were discarded, right where they malfunctioned – and left to degrade on the property. Completely used up and rusting vintage automobiles, trucks, and farm equipment are a silent testament to her Great- Grandparents, Grandparents, and Parents history on the Ranch.

I mean, her family has been in South Dakota since the late 1850’s! Arriving in the Great State of South Dakota on a horse drawn Covered Wagon! How many individuals have such a rich family history to recount to others? There is even a turn of the century school house, complete with green blackboards and wooden school chairs situated right next to her late Grandparents house. Takes your breath away, just thinking about it – Huh?

Did I mention that each morning, not one, but two roosters and a gaggle of ducks sounded the arrival of the Crack of Dawn- every morning? Yup! I should also mention that we had, right from the chicken’s butt - to the pan, Ranch fresh eggs. I could go on and on and on….

This past weekend, we visited Deadwood, an incredible old Western town. Tracy and I walked the entire town, our eyes taking in over one hundred year old brick and mortar buildings, and wooden structures. We even visited “Saloon #10” where Marshal Wild Bill Hickok met his demise, holding cards that are now known as a “Dead- Man’s Hand”.

Want to spend a weekend in a rustic Western hotel, and do you have some extra “rainy-day” money you do not mind parting with? Deadwood, South Dakota is the Mid-Western equivalent to Las Vegas, without the glitz and glamour of the flavor of the month floor shows. Everywhere you go, in each hotel, restaurant, and place you can imagine – slot machines and gaming tables are waiting…. We even ate at Kevin Costner’s renovated restaurant. The town of Deadwood is very rich in history, and is, like everything else in South Dakota – A MUST SEE!!!

So, what are you waiting for? Beat out the massive influx of Summer tourists, and make a beeline to South Dakota. It is America’s best kept secret! Even in the waning days of Winter – This State is a people friendly place to soak up and bathe in the History of these United States.

Dances With Wolves…. South Dakota…. Once you arrive here, you will never want to leave! In Tracy’s own words – Repeated every time I make mention of my possessions housed in an unoccupied apartment in Illinois – “You’re not going anywhere – Buddy! You are stuck here!!!" – LOL!!!

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About the author Argile Stox: Visit the website: http://mysite.verizon.net/res8nrbr/



Email: argilestox@gmail.com


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