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Greetings From Iguazú Falls

By Thomas Keyes
Mar. 14, 2007

Truly awesome are Iguazú Falls, the world-famous cataract on the Río Iguazú, a tributary of the Río Paraná, in Misiones, a province in the northeast of Argentina.  I went out there today from Puerto Iguazú, a nearby town of around 30,000, also in Misiones. This is in the Triple Frontier, the area surrounding the point where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay all meet.  In 2005, I passed through Ciudad del Este, Paraguay and Foz de Iguaçu. Brazil, both of which are much larger than Puerto Iguazú.  These three countries are separated by rivers rather than imaginary lines on a map, so traveling from one to the other is more difficult.  Not only that but also Paraguay and Brazil require visas.  Mine are long expirted.  So I viewed the falls only from the Argentine side.

I left Buenos Aires at 7 PM Monday on a bus belonging to Río Uruguay lines.  I was in the foremost seat on the upper deck and had an excellent view.  Buenos Aires, as is known, is in the Pampas, or green prairies, of Argentina, but as we moved north, the land started undulating into green hills and became increasingly afforested, so that by the time we reached the northern part of Misiones, we were in the thick of impenetrable jungle, one of the few patches of jungle in the country.  Puerto Iguazú is on the 25th parallel, just a short distance from the Tropioc of Capricorn.  The distance from Buenos Aires is about 600 miles.

This morning about 7 o’clock, I boarded a city bus out to the falls and was there 30 minutes later.  The falls are inside Iguazú National Park, with admission being about US $10.  Once inside, I was instructed by some girl to board a mini-train, which rolled for 2 or 3 miles.   Then I transferred to another mini-train for another 2 or 3 miles.  From the terminus of the second railroad, I walked with a random party of about 100 people one more mile to an observation platform practically above the falls.  We were within 50 feet of the nearest spills, as the Iguazú tumbles down 100 feet or so, sending up a fine spray that looks like steam.  Then I walked around another path for an hour or so.  This is thick, steamy jungle.  There are supposed to be coatimundi in the park, but I didn’t see any.  The park is just full of butterflies, thousands upon thousands.  I had almost forgotten that these little beauties exist.  Around the park, and in Misiones generally, there are rushing torrents of reddish, clayey water, a typical phenomenon of tropical rainforests.  But the trails were provided with pedestrian bridges.

I visited Niagara Falls in 1972, but that’s so long ago, it’s hard for me to say what they were like, but very similar to Iguazú as I recall.

The town of Puerto Iguazú is neat and clean, spiffy and attractive, catering to the tourist trade.

For the first time since I’ve been in Argentina, I heard quite a few Americans speaking English.  It was typical stuff.  You know, one rotund, pot-bellied, amorphous mass of a middle-middle to upper-middle-class Irish American was showing everyone his pedometer, which showed that he had walked 590 paces, for a distance of 2.3 miles, and had used up 111 calories.  Everyone oohed and aahed at his little electronic device, but no one seemed to catch the obvious paradox: his paces would have had to be over 20 feet to make the equation work.

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About the author Thomas Keyes: I have written two books: A SOJOURN IN ASIA (non-fiction) and A TALE OF UNG (fiction), neither published so far.

I have studied languages for years and traveled extensively on five continents.

Email: udikeyes@yahoo.com


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